![]() ![]() Do be aware that the overheating event could also have been caused by a lint capture screen in the dryer being clogged up and not being cleaned before every load is started. I know you said in comments that the vent is clear. If you feel that the high temperature cutout has opened up due to age or a one time overheating event then it should be OK to replace it with a new one and start using the dryer again. Something caused the cutout to open circuit and this is then causing the heater coils to not get any current to create heat. The fact that you do not see any change in the reading when you check across the high temperature cutout indicates that this is the faulty component. Your meter appears to read a 1 in the left most digit when the meter is detecting an open circuit. The 000 reading for the thermostat indicates that the thermostat is a closed switch at room temperature and is a strong indication that this component is OK. It could be a vent line that got crushed, a vent line clogged up with lint, an outside vent screen jammed with lint or even a snow bank that blocked off the vent outlet. After you replace the faulty component it will be necessary to determine why the dryer may have overheated in the first place. If it shows a high reading or an open circuit then you have located the faulty component.īe aware that there is a good probability that the dryer may have overheated and caused one or the other of the thermostat or the high temperature cutout to go to open circuit. ![]() If you use your OHM tester you should be able to place your probes across each of these and read a low reading of just an ohm or two (not more) for each one. The most common wiring for a dryer is that the thermostat and high temperature cutout fuse are wired in series with the heater element and so you may be able to find them by tracing the wires that connect to the heater element. Often times such diagram is located pasted onto some panel of the dryer unit. To check the other components you will have to locate them in your dryer by using common sense and any electrical diagram you can find for your dryer. So your reading of 8 or 9 ohms is not unrealistic and probably indicates that the heater element is not burned to an open circuit. Once you’ve determined the solution, our expertly-produced video tutorials will guide you through every step of the repair.It would be normal to see a few ohms of resistance in a cold heater coil. Use our website to choose from a series of problems to discover the likely causes and the correct replacement part(s) for your particular model. In addition to providing replacement parts, offers free online troubleshooting information and DIY repair videos. ![]() Return any part for any reason with our generous 365-day return policy. We guarantee the fastest shipping possible-all in-stock parts ship the same business day. Our customer care team is available to help by phone or live chat, seven days a week: 1-80. RepairClinic has millions of replacement parts for appliances, lawn equipment, power tools, and heating & cooling equipment including washers, dryers, dishwashers, refrigerators, lawn mowers, snowblowers, furnaces, and air conditioners. Other commonly replaced parts for an electric dryer not heating are: Thermal fuse High limit thermostat Cycling thermostat Main control board Timer Moisture sensor Thermistor All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands: Amana, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, LG, Maytag, Roper, Samsung and Whirlpool. The heating element is the most commonly replaced part for an electric dryer that is not heating and not drying clothes. This video demonstrates how to test a heating element on an electric dryer. ![]()
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